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Anybody with a Slate experience..?

September 11, 2017, 10:25 am
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I've gotten the opportunity to get the Cannondale Slate 105 2017 ed for $1500. Would it be an alternative? I'm actually looking for a more "traditional" gravel setup, but at this price it's starting to be interesting.

Anybody with an experience riding the Slate on gravel?

Category: Bikes

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Gravel Race Bike: All-Steel & Thru-Axle Questions

September 14, 2017, 11:36 am
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I've been mulling over this for a while now and I wanted to get some opinions on this topic before I stress myself any further. I was looking into getting a gravel bike that COULD be raced, however racing would not be it's primary function. There were three things I wanted to consider:

1: There are numerous gravel race bikes that are steel framed with a carbon fork, but few that have steel forks. I've been pretty jaded when it comes to carbon-anything on my bike, and I started looking to steel for ease of mind. That said I have not seen many individuals racing with an all-steel bike so I wonder how practical it would be. 

2: Now say I find an all-steel bike, many of these bikes fall under touring/bikepacking categories in terms of their geometry with super long wheelbases/chainstays, sometimes huge head-tubes or low trail front ends for front racks, and low BB drops (I run 650b tires so that matters). I much prefer bikes with shorter chainstays and wheelbases (420-35/1020-1040), higher BB drops (60-65), and head-tubes with higher trails (70-72 degrees, 60-70mm trail).

3: I have an all-steel gravel bike with geometry that I want, but it uses quick release hubs. My current bike uses QR and my main issues come when I'm sprinting and the disc rotor rubs against the brake pads, and whenever I remove the wheels and put them back they rub the pads requiring even more adjustment every time I remove them. If switching to thru-axles don't alleviate these issues then I guess this is the one thing that I can compromise on.

TL-DR Because I rambled: 1) Can a Steel Frame+Fork be viable for gravel racing. 2) Are there bikes with geo balanced for speed/responsiveness and comfort/stability (and 700c/650b). 3) Will thru-axles stop my disc rotors from rubbing my brake pads when sprinting or when replacing the wheel?

One final note: I don't want a super-light race bike, but I don't want a slow/heavy touring rig either. I'd be super content with a bike hovering around 20lbs, however anything higher and I would be a bit more hesitant.

EDIT: Well I fixed the brake rubbing while sprinting issue, but I believe the latter issue still stands.

Category: Bikes

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Surly Straggler or ECR

September 18, 2017, 6:52 pm
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New to gravel riding --- can't make my mind up on a mtn bike frame or road frame to play on these roads. I have a road bike and a mtn bike already so this would be my all-arounder for fun on back roads and putting some miles on it. I really like Surly

Any suggestions?

Category: Bikes

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Lynskey Cooper CX with Whisky Fork running 700x43

September 20, 2017, 7:03 pm
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Just finished my build... on STN Grail rims running 700x43 Panaracer Gravelking SK's

I have clearance for days... and rocks, and mud...

I call this bike my Magic Carpet Ride... MCR!
IMG_1230.JPG

Category: Bikes

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Use rust inhibitor in aluminum bikes? Yes Dorothy, aluminum corrodes...

September 22, 2017, 8:49 am
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Per the periodic table, aluminum is a more reactive metal than iron yet most people are more concerned with corrosion (rust) with steel frames.

Here's a lengthy analysis of an aluminum bicycle frame which failed.  The key takeaway IMHO is that corrosion inside of the bottom bracket area was a major contributor to the failure.  

The key components (again IMHO) for the corrosion were:
1. The bike was used in a humid SALINE environment. 
2. The inside of the tubes were not treated/protected.

Also note there were no signs of corrosion on the exterior of the tubes.

There's also a bunch of manufacturing details which are highlighted as contributing factors to the failure, but I would bet that if the bottom bracket area of the frame had been treated with a rust inhibitor (Frame Saver, LPS-3, Boe Shield, WD-40 or other) then the failure would not have occurred or at least would have taken much longer. 

Here's the link...
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232410562_Analysis_of_the_cracking_causes_in_an_aluminium_alloy_bike_frame


Category: Bikes

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Why Cycles R+ Build (TRP Hylex RS, XTR Di2)

September 22, 2017, 8:26 pm
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Thought I would post up some information about my bike build (FYI, lots of photo's).  

***Full disclosure:  In late 2014 I hurt my back, I decided I really needed to get in better shape, and lose some weight - so I started cycling and I have since lost about 60 lbs.  I began with a Specialized Crosstrail flatbar/hybrid bike, which led to a GT Grade Alloy bike, which led to an On-One Bish Bash Bosh carbon build, which has led me to my current build, a Why Cycles R+ titanium build.  My 3+ years of cycling on 4 bikes does not make me an expert.  Can I feel the difference between the carbon fiber Bish Bash Bosh (BBB) and the Titanium R+? Of course I can.   Can I tell if the Rodeo Adv. Labs Spork fork is more stiff or less compliant than the fork on my Bish Bash Bosh, not so much...

So, with that - here are some of details of the build along with my opinions...

  • R+ Frameset (XL, 1942 grams with seatpost, maxle, headset)

  • Rodeo Adv. Labs Spork Fork (622g, uncut)

  • TRP Hylex RS hydro brakes and levers (329g Rear Post mount w/Di2 climbing switch, 408g  Front Post Mount - not sure why the front is so much heavier maybe my scale was wrong)

  • XTR Di2 Rear Derailleur (288g)

  • Easton EC90 SL 1x 42T Crankset (543g w/Bottom Bracket)

  • Easton EC70 AX bars (220g), EC70 seatpost (139g), EC90 SL Stem (121g)

  • HED Ardennes + 650B Wheelset (1392g, no tubes/tape) / SRAM XD 10-42T Cassette (395g)

  • Panaracer GK 650B x 48mm tires (573 g/each)

    I haven't weighed it yet, but it should be around 19 lbs based on the weights of the components.

So far I have only put about 150 miles of gravel riding on this bike, but I am really enjoying it.  I am still trying to get the fit dialed in, the R+ has a lot lower stack compared to my BBB so I have left the steer tube pretty long pretty long for now and will slowly start to trim it down.  

20170916_145502.jpg 

Since I still have the BBB I am able to ride it side by side with the R+ to compare and contrast the qualities.  The ride quality of titanium really is amazing compared to the carbon BBB.   The tires certainly have a lot to do with that, the 650B x 48 mm tires on the R+ are massive compared to the 700c x 35 mm tires on the BBB.  The R+ Frame easily clears the 48mm GK's (they measure 50mm on the Ardennes + Rims).  Clearance is a bit tighter at the fork, but I still have ~5 mm of clearance on either side of the tire.

20170916_143812.jpg 

The TRP Hylex RS brakes/hoods are phenomenal - I absolutely love them.  The hoods are superior to the Shimano R685 hoods that are on my BBB, they feel like they were custom molded from the palm of my hand, plus I think they just plain look cool.  

This is my first experience with electronic shifting.  I wanted to build a really simple system, and TRP had the answer.  They sell an adapter that allows you to mount a Di2 Climbing switch to the side of their brakes.  It is very clever and works well.  For the Di2 setup, all you need are a derailleur, climbing switch, battery, two cables, and a 3 port A-junction box - then it is simply plug and play.  I thought the Di2 climbing switch would be bulky/awkward but it is in a perfect spot on the side of the right hood.  From the drops you are more limited in shifting options, but I can still easily hit the rear button to shift into a taller gear while in the drops.  Plus, when you need to shift - its just a quick tap of the button.

TRP Lever 2.jpg  20170917_090513.jpg  20170917_111001.jpg 

Category: Bikes

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Raleigh News

September 25, 2017, 9:04 am
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I just got off the phone with Raleigh. When I received my Tamland 1 it had a major scratch/missing paint on the integrated seat collar. I wanted to get it fixed and looks like they will do everything in their part to help me. While talking to them I found out that they aren't planning on bringing the Roker Comp back in their 2018 line. Does anybody on here have one and what do you think about it. He did say that they are doing one last production run of them for 2017 So I don't know if that will mean that they have it in the Corporate discount like they did on their other bikes last fall/spring or not.


Zman

Category: Bikes

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Breezer Doppler looks like an absolute steal. Thoughts?

September 26, 2017, 1:08 am
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Am I missing anything?  These breezer bikes look to be absolutely phenomenally spec'ced for the price.
http://breezerbikes.com/bikes/details/doppler-pro
Tiagra, hy-rd brakes, fenders, 650b 47mm horizon tires. $1099 USD.

http://breezerbikes.com/bikes/details/doppler-team
upgrade to ultegra hydraulic, same fenders, tires, $1999 USD.

As I prepare to move in a month(and live next to a gorgeous 30 mile road circling a lake that's 2/3 gravel), my bike search has begun in earnest.  I think I have a winner.  If they were available online I think I'd've pulled the trigger already.  Instead I have time to ask for some feedback.

My biggest complaint is that I don't see a stack/reach listed, but I'm pretty sure I can make the it work for me based on the geometry of the other two adventure bikes they have.  Which also look very nice.  I just wish the Radar had a thru-axle in the rear.

Last year I bought a raleigh willard on the corporate deal, and thought it was an absolute steal.  These prices seem even more expensive.  Is there something I don't know that means I should be avoiding one of these bikes?

Category: Bikes

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Forum Intro

September 26, 2017, 2:38 pm
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This is my first post so I thought I’d take this opportunity to introduce myself. I come from a land of asphalt and dirt so don’t get to spend much time ‘riding gravel’. I do however spend most of my time riding long distances on dirt, rocks and what not.



As this is the bike sub-forum I’ll Kip this post focused on bike stuff. I have a large collection of bikes so I’ll list only the bikes used for gravel-like riding. First is my beloved Ibis Hakkalugi. It’s a cantilever model with a proper hand job. It’s set up with wide A23 rims, Chris King hubs, and Salsa Woodchippers.



Being surrounded by mountains I run low gearing with a 34 front/34 rear low. Currently she is fitted with Racing Ralph tires but she is more often se n with Clement MSOs in a 42mm size high just fit tween her slender thighs. According the Strava I’ve put over 10k miles on her and she is my go-to mount for almost any ride.

Category: Bikes

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Raleigh Roker Comp vs Jamis Renegade Expert vs Diamondback Haanjo Comp Carbon

September 27, 2017, 8:01 pm
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So after this weekend and riding the Maple City Century I dropped back to the metric ride. I walked 5-6 hills/mts at least. I bought the Tamland 1 as a starter bike and figured if I didn't like gravel racing I only forked out $800. I thought I would love gravel riding/racing and yes I do. The Tamland weighs 25.1 without pedals in 56 cm. I spent 3-4 hrs at least tonight looking over specs but after awhile since I am not the techy guy it all looks like a blur. It might come down to which one is the best deal for me or I see that the Jamis had capabilities of 3 water bottles which is a big deal for me. The other issue is that the bike will have to weigh under 20 lbs or I won't buy it. I see right away that the Haanjo sets up higher on the stand over so I would have to order a 53 cm versus what looks like 56 cm in the other 2. Throw some stats out there and maybe somebody can look at the components on the bike and see if there is a big difference in any of the 3.

will list the stats as follows

My Tamland
Roker Comp
Jamis Renegade Expert
Diamondback Haanjo Comp Carbon

Stand over height
T 800 MM 56 CM
R 805 MM 56 CM
J 808 MM 56 CM
D 808 MM 53 CM

Reach
T 383 MM
R 381 MM
J 387 MM
D 371 MM

Stack
T 581 MM
R 586 MM
J 595 MM
D 570 MM

Wheel base
T not listed but looks to be 1040 - 1043 mm
R 1040 MM
J 1042 MM
D 1025 MM

Chain stay length
T 440 MM
R 440 MM
J 430 MM
D 430 MM

BB Height
T 75 MM
R 75 MM
J  72 MM
D 70 MM

Fork offset
T 50 MM
R 52 MM
J  53 MM
D 45 MM

Head Angle
T 71 DEG.
R 71.5 DEG.
J 71.5 DEG.
D 70.0 DEG.

Seat Angle
T 73 DEG.
R 73 DEG.
J 73 DEG.
D 73.5

Crank lengths look all to be the same 172.5 but the Jamis isn't listed and has  top effective(569) mm what is that?

I see heat tube length and top tube length but don't understand that much I have read about people cutting the length off their steerer but not sure which one that is

Heat tube length
T 135 MM
R 155 MM
J 176.7 MM
H 155 MM

Top tube length
T 560 MM
R 560 MM
J I think this is the top effective now 569
D 540 MM

If I am reading these stats right it looks like the Haanjo is more race set up with the shorter wheel base lower stack but don't know how to read the lower fork offset. Any help figuring out these stats would be helpful. From what I can see the Roker is closer to my now Tamland but I have no comparison as my old mt. bike a Schwinn was a slight step up from a Walmart bike. I might like a snappier bike than my Tamland What I think is the Haanjo is more race ready but how much comfort are you giving up over say a 100 150 or 200 mile ride/race. I don't think I would have to ride the Roker but maybe a test ride on the Jamis or Haanjo might help. Does anybody see anything different in the components that one stands out better/higher grade?

Bottom bracket height doesn't matter as I won't be doing mt biking with it. Maybe I could get lucky and somebody has actually ridden 2 of the bikes.


Thanks
Zman

Category: Bikes

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Raleigh Roker Comp vs Jamis Renegade Expert vs Diamondback Haanjo Comp Carbon

September 27, 2017, 8:03 pm
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2018 Norco Search

September 29, 2017, 4:29 pm
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I'm really liking the look of these bikes. Good tire clearance and will take 700 x 45's or 27.5 x 2.1 mtn tires (option for 650b or 26 inch on the small sizes) and some other nifty features. 

Category: Bikes

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Advice 27.5 Mountain Bikes

October 3, 2017, 3:20 am
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OK -- this isn't strictly about gravel bikes; but I know lots of you come from, or have a lot of mountain bike experience. I know very little about mountain bikes; but for several reasons, I'd like to add one to my vast collection of 2 wheel vehicles. Having recently discovered the delights of riding on unpaved surfaces with my increasingly mountain bike influenced gravel bikes -- disc brakes, thru axles, tubeless tires etc., I'd like to start expanding my repertoire to the many unpaved and unmaintained farm and logging roads is my area. You more skilled, and younger riders, would likely tackle these wider double tracked trails with your gravel bikes; but being 74 years old with many old scars and broken bones from racing bikes for almost 60 years, I'm reluctant to learn the hard way on my new gravel bike which can only take 40mm tires. After considering the many alternatives out there, from monster cross to full blown dual suspension 29er mountain bikes, I've zeroed in on 27.5+ single suspension bikes with 4"+ wide tubeless tires as perhaps my best choice --- either kitted out as a flat bar mountain bike, or as a drop bar super monster cross machine. I'd like to keep the cost around $3,000 or less. Suggestions and advice much appreciated - thanks.

Category: Bikes

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2017 Specialized Diverge A1

October 3, 2017, 6:45 am
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I've been doing some gravel/road riding on my hardtail MTB and decided to get a more dedicated bike for doing this. I picked up a Diverge that's only a couple of months old off Craigslist. The bike came with 28mm tires, I would like to put on some 35mm's if they will fit but it looks like it might be tight.
Can you recommend a good gravel road tire and what are your thoughts on this bike for those of you who have had any experience with them.
Thanks

Category: Bikes

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Novice question: when considering position comfort on gravel bikes

October 3, 2017, 7:57 pm
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Are we mostly looking at stack?  I am looking for my first gravel bike coming from mountain biking.  The Salsa Warbird is positioned as a race bike, and perceived to be not as comfortable because of positioning.  Its stack is 565mm for a 55cm bike and the Jamis Renegade is 565mm for a 54cm bike.   Yet the Renegade is said to be a more comfortable bike.  I have not had the opportunity to test any bike but the new Warbird aluminum looks appealing.  Not a racer but looking for fun.  

What is most important when looking for riding position comfort?  

Thanks.  


Category: Bikes

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Forum Intro - Part 2 NBD

October 6, 2017, 10:04 am
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So after waiting 6 months and 13 Days my new bike is finally complete.

She is a Moots Routt 45. The frame is full custom with RSL tubes, a longer TT, three bottle mounts and fender eyelets. It’s got the stealthy “etched” finish and the cool engraved head badge. She also has the requisite Moots RSL stem and lay-back post.



She has Enve SES 4.5AR rims with Chris King R45 ceramic hubs shod with WTB Riddler 37c tires (tubeless). CK also provides the matching navy blue headset and bottom bracket. The drive train is a Dura Ace/XTR hybrid with hydro brakes and DI2 shifting. Easton EC70 AX bars, Brooks Brothers C17 saddle and Crank Brothers Candy pedals complete the build.



She is the Full Monty for sure... Stay tuned for ride reports and other adventures.



X_Jarhead

Category: Bikes

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Another Raleigh Tamland 1 ?

October 8, 2017, 6:47 pm
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So Sat. a week ago I rode the surprise course Crush and Run II out of Litiz Pa. Luckily I was riding with some old friends that know the area and course and we still somehow managed to get lost at least twice.  The first 1/2 of the ride/race went fairly well for me even though I was highly untrained for the ride because of my medical injuries this year with my collarbone nerve pain. I was lucky in that there were 5 riders and I was kind of mid pack and suffered on the climbs and then could soft pedal some to recover until the last rider caught up after the climbs.

We had to make the 1/2 way point of the ride but a cut off time or not get the 2nd 1/2 cue sheet. We made it by 30 - 45 minutes. The ride kind of went downhill for me after that. There was a techy section that you had to climb a small hill and jump a root. No problem climbing the small hill. Jumping the tree root was a different story. I did a slow speed crash probably at about 5 mph or less over onto my right side. My pride was hurt more than anything but I did has some nice scratches/cuts on my right arm. Here is where I noticed a big difference between the roadie crowd and the gravel crowd. The roadie crowd would have asked how is the bike. The gravel crowd asked any blood and hooted when I showed them my arm.  I guess sooner or later they think/know you are going to trash your bike. How true I found this out later.

Now my ?????????????????????????????'s

So today I took the Tamland out for a ride. The last 1/2 of the ride last Sat. I had to ride in the lower 10 gears as the chain keep flying off the front big chain ring. I though I just had something out of adjustment or possibly bent the front derailleur a little bit. Now on today's ride yes it keeps jumping off the front ring. I look down and the big front chain ring is really bent/tacoed. I know the crash didn't do that. I do remember I came on to this one climb and was in the wrong gearing. I jumped up on the bike was mashing some gears and down shifting as fast as I could. I think this bent that ring and it's hard to believe at my end that I could bend it from that but it wasn't working after that.

Specs for the bike just show forged 2 piece compact crank 34/46

Can somebody give me some advice some replacement cranks either Shimano 105 or Shimano Ultegra. I guess the other ones could be under warranty but I don't think I want that kind of crank on my bike if they are going to bend that easily.

Open for some suggestions for some mid priced sub compact 34/46 cranks for this bike. Clueless here @ Newburg Pa.

Thanks
Zman

Category: Bikes

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Two choices, what's your pick?

October 14, 2017, 1:00 pm
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I love steel. I had an all steel, rigid Univega Rover more than 20 years ago that did everything I wanted it to on pavement or off of pavement. I absolutely loved riding that bike. It cost around $350 brand new back then, so it wasn't really an amazing bike by most people's standards, but I loved it. My sister let someone borrow it once and I never got it back.



I'm wanting something like that now, so I'm looking for rigid steel frames that will clear a 40mm tire. I'm not interested in tubeless, disc brakes, racing, svelte racing geometry, the pursuit of a "light" bike, top of the line anything, or high cost. I drive a truck and just want to take a bike with me that will handle pavement, jumping curbs, potholes, gravel parking lots, dirt, grass and "trails". I don't want aluminum at all. I had a 3000 dollar full Ultegra road bike with an aluminum frame and it beat the hell out of me. I swapped everything to a Gunnar Roadie frame and I LOVE that bike, so it's steel for me.



I looked around forever at old used bikes and frames that were steel until I settled on a Trek 750 Multitrack. It's a 97 model. It's got drop bars and brifters, and some 28mm road tires, but besides that it's all original. I was simply going to get a sub 200 dollar, modern wheelset, new tires and be done with it, but the parts aren't in the best shape, so I figured why not just do a swap out of everything, with good quality used parts and make it mine?



I figured at that point, for what I already have in it, I could get what I'd really like for less than $800 easy. I was about to start buying parts, and then noticed, even though I was unable to turn it up while looking for new bikes that would fit my budget, Nashbar sells an all steel cyclocross bike with a 105 groupset for $650.



It has a double crank, and I'd really like a triple. The multitrack has a triple already. The Nashbar bike also has cantilever brakes, and I'd want V brakes, and the wheelset might be something to upgrade as well, so the cost would go up to get what I'd really like. With the new bike, there would be very little work to do but with the old bike, swapping everything out would be part of the fun, and older, repurposed bikes are way cool. Also, the 750 has a little bit more of a comfortable hybrid geometry, where the cyclocross bike is a little bit closer to road.



I came across the concept of "gravel" when I was looking for a new bike in the style I want, and eventually came across this website. I figured people here might be able to help me zero in on one approach or the other.



Thanks in advance for any input.

Category: Bikes

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Crust Evasion sizing?

October 19, 2017, 8:02 am
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Hi all - new to the forum.



Currently, I’m on a 49cm All-City Macho Man Disc. Fit is ok but, not what I’m after in a bike.



Does anyone have experience with the Crust Evasion?



The stand over on the Macho Man is 776 and, the Evassion is 777. Am, I safe to assume this will be a good fit? Should I consider stack?

Category: Bikes

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650b road plus with fenders-any good, cheaper options?

October 25, 2017, 12:45 am
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I wasn't entirely comfortable with last winter's riding on 40mm 700c tires-I wanted something a bit wider.  I don't have that bike anymore.  Finding bikes that fit 45mm tires with fenders is a bit of a challenge, and fenders aren't optional for me(average 130 inches of rain/year).

So I'm looking at bikes that come with 650b tires, that fit fenders.  Thru-axles a definite plus, I hate fussing with wheel alignment.

So far I'm seeing the Breezer Doppler.  Cheap and pretty.  Also HEAVY, no stack/reach in the geometry chart and their contact email address isn't valid.  Nor does breezer respond to facebook messages.  So that makes me wary. I like the fork mounts.

The kona rove seems like a great bike, but a little bit more than I'd like to spend.

The standard rando twin six sure is pretty, but if I'm going to spend that kind of money I'd really like thru-axles.

The Fuji Jari advertises itself as fitting 650b 50mm tires, but I'd need to build wheels separately.  Or I could build up a frameset?  I suppose there are a bunch of bikes like that.

Any other suggestions for me to look at?  There has to be more, but I'm pretty illiterate when it comes to brands.  "Just go test ride" isn't really an option when you live 4 hours from a major metropolitan area and you're 6'4".

Category: Bikes

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